We only stayed in Sabah for a little while, so there's not that much
to say really.
We failed in our attempts to get to Tenom (see the
news section), but had a really amazing time in the hills around Mt.
Kinabalu. We stayed 2 nights in a village called Bundu Tuhan 1st - we
were lucky that two tour guides were also staying in the same house (a
little cottage) and we got invited to go with some local Dusan people
from the village to their house and ate and had drinks - a very funny
evening with a mix of 4 languages - Dusan, Kadazan, English and
malay. It was good to get an opportunity to practice my Malay. We also
tried some shots of a local drink called Banar - a mix of coconut
milk which they soak some dried bark of a native tree in to ferment -
about the same % alcohol as wine but really strong bitter flavor. We
went for an 11km walk in the park the day before we went up the Mtn.
Gave some opportunity to acclimatise and condition the muscles. The
forest is diptocarp - must be similar to NZ cos I saw lots of similar
looking aspleniums, ferns and some things that looked like Kahekitia and
psuedopanx.
Staying at
Bundu Tuhan was amazing - the mountains and villages here in sabah are
just beautiful - whole hillsides covered in terraced crops (home-style
veges introduced by the missionaries), palm oil and virgin forest. The
bus takes 2hrs to go just 90km, so it's fairly windy and steep and the
bottom of the mountain is about 1800m. Then the clouds roll in and you
are surrounded by this thick fog that is just a little wet, but so thick
you can't see too far - and you can look down on thunder and lightening
that happens below you in the valleys. It really was quite an amazing
experience. We just wish we had a hire car to explore them some more
and that we hadn't left it till the end of our time here.
The international red group (we all
had red coats) were a mix of us, 2 germans and a swede called marcus .
The walk itself went really well - we were up in 4hrs, 10mins which
is apparently quite quick - went from 1800m to stop at about 3,200m for
the night. Lots of steps, but not as bad as I expected - similar
steepness to but much easier than the walk in and out of douboy bay on
Stewart Island but just twice as high! The huts were quite posh -
kitchen with gas, lights, flush loos, and hot water shower. You got
sheets and blankets too, and there was a separate restaurant - so you
can tell the market that it's aimed at. They charge like a wounded bull
up there - $23NZD for a night for a bed, $70NZD each for the climb,
insurance and guide - that's expensive when our daily budget is $30NZD
each, which is not too difficult to stick within!!! Then you can triple what you would pay in the city for food. The trip was really
worth it the view from the hut alone is spectacular - another 700m up
over 2.5 km and you get to the top - most of it is pulling yourself up
ropes - expect me and al just walked up it...they say altitude affects
people but I think it's just that they are not used to exercising in the
cold - we didn't find it too bad. Us two and the swede were the first
to reach the summit in 1hr 55mins - average time is about 3. 45mins
down. It really was very spectacular and I'd go again at the drop of a
hat - just not today! down took 2hr 45mins - so fast. But they race the mountain in 2hrs 20min - or 3.20 for women - that's pretty sick!!!! The
tops are just granite, and it's about 2 degrees (which is very different
to 35!!!) but the sunrise is amazing, and then you get to see what you
came up over (you leave at 2.30am from the hut!). The experience is
really awesome.
Unfortunately, we stayed at the rather scuzzy
pouring hot springs. An expensive disappointment, but we were lucky that
the ruffelesia was in flower near by and so we got some good snaps of
that. Back to our lodge in KK, then on to Kuala Lumpur.
f we
were to do things again, I think a rental car would have been rather
good - there are loads of unlisted guest houses everywhere here (the one
we stayed in was great and also unlisted - it also had a kitchen! a
major bonus when fresh produce just makes you want to cook). Otherwise,
you feel like you are missing out on really getting and opportunity to
soak up the atmosphere and explore all the little side roads and
villages.